Saturday, February 18, 2017

Tonkatsu

This is a favorite of mine. You can make a tonkatsu plate out of it, or you can make another dish called katsudon out of the pork chops or cutlets. You can also use a pork tenderloin cut into medallions, and then pounded flat between a sheet of wax paper or some plastic wrap.

Some recipes will tell you to "lightly" pound the cutlets, but I have found that pork chops and cutlets need a really vigorous pounding, and need to be poked all over with a fork and scored with a sharp knife.
I can tell you this from personal experience. Had some beautiful pork chops, lightly pounded them, dredged and fried them, they were picture perfect looking - and - most sadly the pork was tough as an old boot.
It ruined the dish. It wasn't a matter of overcooking the cutlets either. You really want to beat the hell out of them, more so than it might seem. Alarmingly so actually where you will have to use care in handling them after you are done.

What it does is to breakdown the meat tissues, and it makes the cutlet a uniform thickness. That is important because for one, it gives the surface of the meat, a better area for the breading to cling on to, and also you also do not have to overcook them, which can make them tough and excessively greasy. I made a test out of this at the restaurant one evening. Lightly pounded 2 pork chops, beat the hell out of 2 others. Coated in identical eggwash and dipped in panko crumbs, then fried. Every taste-tester without exception said the cutlets that had the hell beat out of them were better flavored and more tender.

Typically these are plated on a bed of plain shredded cabbage, but I like them sans the bland shredded cabbage - I do like to serve an easy spicy quick pickled cabbage with them, which is like a vinegar coleslaw or tsukemono pickle, I suppose. If it is served over rice in a bowl, it is called katsudon or katsu-donburi.

3/4 lb. pork cutlet slices, 3/8" thick each, pounded and scored
Salt and pepper to season
2 cups panko crumbs, perhaps more if needed
1/2 cup flour - in Japan some cooks use potato flour, but regular old purpose wheat flour will do fine.
3 eggs
Oil for frying
Tonkatsu sauce - either store bought, or homemade, recipe below.

Vigorously pound the pork with a kitchen hammer, meat tenderizer hammer or frying pan. Poke lots of holes in it with a fork, and then score it with a sharp knife. The cutlets should look pretty ragged and should be tenderized to the point you will have to carefully handle them so they don't break apart. Season the pork slices with salt and pepper, set aside. Put the panko crumbs crumbs into shallow bowl. Beat eggs in another bowl and pour some flour into a plate as well.
Coat the pork slices with flour, egg, and bread crumbs. Stack them together on a plate and cover them with plastic wrap. Chill them for at least 30 minutes to one hour. This step is important in assuring the panko coating doesn't fall off and adheres to the cutlet while they are being fried.

To fry the tonkatsu, heat oil over medium heat, to about 325. Test with a piece of bread crumbs to see if it bubbles up right away. Drop the pork slices and fry for 1-2 minutes each side. Transfer the meat on to wire rack. Fry again for the second time, only 30 seconds to one minute on each side until they get nicely browned all over. Rest them on the rack. Drizzle with tonkatsu sauce over and serve immediately.

Tonkatsu Sauce
1/3 cup soy sauce
1/2 apple, chopped
1/2 small onion, chopped
1/2 can of 8 oz canned crushed pineapple and their juice
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
3 tbsp. brown sugar
2 tbsp. corn syrup
1/4 cup steak sauce - A1 or Heinz 57, whatever you like, or you can omit this.

Combine all the ingredients in a sauce pan over medium heat. Boil and simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes until it gets thickened and syrupy. Strain the sauce in the strainer pressing with spoon to get all the juice. Discard the filling and keep the sauce in the fridge until ready to use.

Spicy Cabbage Tsukemono - Izakaya-style
1 small head green or napa cabbage
1/2 small head red cabbage
1 large carrot
Grated fresh ginger - just a bit.
4 tbsp. rice vinegar
1 tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1 tsp. salt
4 tsp. sugar
1-2 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 tbsp. sesame seeds, lightly toasted
I also add a shot of shoyu and Sriracha Hot Sauce to it.

Finely chop the cabbage into thin strips. Do the same with the vegetables. In a large bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients. Add vegetables, and toss well to coat. Refrigerate for a few hours if you have time, to really let the flavors soak in.

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